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Pie and mash lovers launch campaign to give classic East End dish protected status

Pie and mash lovers are fighting to safeguard the beloved East End delicacy as they urge the government to give it a protected status.

Pie and mash lovers are fighting to safeguard the beloved East End delicacy as they urge the government to give it a protected status.

Dubbing them the original fast food, people wanting to serve the minced beef pie with mashed potato and parsley liquor would have to abide by an exacting recipe under new rules to preserve the dishs integrity.

Conservative former minister Richard Holden and producers have already made representations to the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs (Defra) about an application for Traditional Speciality Guaranteed status for the dish.

The MP for Basildon and Billericay will even lead a parliamentary debate in Westminster Hall today to further fight the cause for the cracking products to get the recognition they deserve.

In a strident call to arms, the 39-year-old gloated: I dont start campaigns I cant win.

Dubbing them the original fast food, people wanting to serve the minced beef pie with mashed potato and parsley liquor would have to abide by an exacting recipe to preserve the dishs integrity. Pictured: A plate of pie, double mash and liquor

Dubbing them the original fast food, people wanting to serve the minced beef pie with mashed potato and parsley liquor would have to abide by an exacting recipe to preserve the dishs integrity. Pictured: A plate of pie, double mash and liquor

Conservative former minister Richard Holden (pictured) and producers have already made representations to the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs

Conservative former minister Richard Holden (pictured) and producers have already made representations to the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs

Eel Pie Houses - as they were first known - have been a staple of east London life since the 1700s, and were originally filled with eels from the Thames. Pictured: Manzes Eel, Pie and Mash shop on Tower Bridge Road London

Eel Pie Houses - as they were first known - have been a staple of east London life since the 1700s, and were originally filled with eels from the Thames. Pictured: Manzes Eel, Pie and Mash shop on Tower Bridge Road London

So how DO you make Pie and Mash? 

For the pie... 

1. Preheat oven to 375°F (190°C).

2. In a large pan, heat the oil and cook the onions until softened.

3. Add the minced beef, salt, and pepper to the onions, cooking until the beef is browned.

4. Mix cornstarch with a bit of cold water in a small bowl to create a slurry.

5. Add the beef stock and Worcestershire sauce to the pan, then stir in the cornstarch slurry. Simmer for a few minutes until the sauce thickens.

6. Roll out the pastry sheets and line the base of a 9-inch pie dish with one sheet, trimming the excess pastry.

7. Spoon the beef mixture into the pastry-lined dish.

8. Cover the pie with the second pastry sheet, sealing the edges with a fork.

9. Make a small hole in the centre of the pie to allow steam to escape, and brush the top with milk or egg wash for a golden finish.

10. Bake the pie for 25-30 minutes or until the pastry is golden and crisp.

For the parsley liquor... 

1. In a saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat.

2. Gradually whisk in the flour until it forms a roux (a thick paste).

3. Slowly pour in the water, whisking constantly to avoid lumps.

4. Once the sauce has thickened, add the chopped parsley, salt, and pepper.

5. Cook for a couple more minutes until the parsley is wilted.

SOURCE: East London History 

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Defra said an application for TSG status requires agreement on the recipe that producers would need to follow to use the name in future and they will assess the case once a formal application is submitted.

Mr Holden said he has written to more than 40 MPs who have a pie and mash shop in their constituency, explaining : Its part of a campaign to celebrate and really promote pie and mash, which has spread out from its beginnings in central and east London, down the Thames Gateway and out into the world. 

Theres a geographical scheme that covers things from specific areas, like champagne and Cornish pasties, but theres also a traditional methods scheme which is what were trying to get this one covered by. 

Ive been to these pie and mash shops, they make them on site, every day, theyre the original fast food, pies made in advance and they are made by artisans, its a nice thing and I think its something thats been a bit underappreciated. 

Mr Holden has two pie and mash shops in his part of the Basildon new town, which sits to the east of London in Essex.

He said talks are already happening with Defra and he is hopeful that over time that will move further in the right direction. 

Asked about his experiences of eating pie and mash, Mr Holden replied: Cracking. Original pie and mash was an eel pie but when the Thames was polluted during the industrial revolution basically eels were no longer there so they switched to having mince in it.

The crucial thing is they kept the liquor from the original eel pie, which is why youve got the parsley sauce because traditionally parsley liquor would always have gone with a fish dish.

Personally I prefer mine also with vinegar, some people have chilli vinegar - its not for me. Its not malted vinegar, its a specific sort of vinegar that they have with it.

He added: Theres huge local pride in it and also I think, perhaps, pie and mash has been a bit looked down on, maybe, and its right that given these are actual, individually artisan-made products that they get the recognition they deserve. 

Other dishes protected in the UK include the likes of Bramley Apple Pie, Carmarthen ham, Cornish pasties and watercress.

Keen fans of the classic dish include David Beckham, who is frequently spotted stopping for a taste of home, and Eastenders star Danny Dyer.

Eel Pie Houses - as they were first known - have been a staple of east London life since the 1700s, and were originally filled with eels from the Thames.

They were first sold on the streets and carried about on trays or small portable ovens.

Keen fans of the classic dish include David Beckham, who is frequently spotted stopping for a taste of home, and Eastenders star Danny Dyer. Pictured: Castles Pie & Mash

Keen fans of the classic dish include David Beckham, who is frequently spotted stopping for a taste of home, and Eastenders star Danny Dyer. Pictured: Castles Pie & Mash

If protected, diners selling the iconic dish will have to abide by an exacting recipe. Pictured: Manzes Eel, Pie and Mash shop

If protected, diners selling the iconic dish will have to abide by an exacting recipe. Pictured: Manzes Eel, Pie and Mash shop 

Manzes Eel, Pie and Mash shop was opened in 1897 and is the oldest pie and eel shop in the country

Manzes Eel, Pie and Mash shop was opened in 1897 and is the oldest pie and eel shop in the country 

When eels became too expensive, piemen turned to beef to fill their pastries to create the favoured dish we enjoy today.

Environment minister Daniel Zeichner, replying to a written question from Mr Holden, said: Defra officials have already discussed the application process for Traditional Speciality Guaranteed status with a representative of the producers.

They are clear that an application for TSG status requires agreement on the recipe that producers would need to follow to use the name in future.

They also understand that all those wishing to use the name would need periodic verification of their practices.

Once a formal application is submitted, a full assessment of the case can be made.

What are Britains other protected foods? 

Bramley Apple Pie Filling - must be made with Bramley apple pieces cut larger than 15mm and from apples between 65-115mm, mixed with sugar and water.

Traditionally Reared Pedigree Welsh Pork - must be made from pedigree Welsh pigs, who have a low protein diet. The protein percentage of their feed must not be higher than 20% after they are weaned. 

Traditionally farmed Gloucester Old Spots pork - must be from Gloucestershire Old Spots, and reared using traditional farming methods. The meat hast to be matured on the bone for several days. 

Watercress - must be grown in flowing water using the Nasturtium officinale seed at 10-12C.

Scottish Salmon - must have a rounded ventral body shape when viewed laterally and the body wall musculature should show no significant tendency to collapse when carcass is eviscerated. Scottish Salmon have an iridescent appearance and are silver in colour and the flesh colour must have a minimum intensity of 26 on the SalmoFan™ scale

Beacon Fell Traditional Lancashire Cheese - made from full fat cow’s milk sourced from Lancashire and then the cheese must be created in the county. It contains a minimum of 48% butter fat in the moisture free substance and a maximum moisture of 48%. The cheese is made in traditional cylindrical form.

Pembrokeshire Early Potatoes - must be planted, grown and harvested in the defined area and within the required timescale. They are small in size, 15 – 70mm diameter, due to the young age of the potatoes when harvested and have a creamy texture.

Jersey Royal Potatoes - must be made on the island of Jersey, and is characterised by long oval tubers, yellow skin and firm texture once cooked. Seaweed is extensively used as a fertiliser, which enhances the flavour of the potatoes.

Yorkshire Wensleydale -  must be made in Wensleydale, in North Yorkshire, and has a creamy-white colour with an open crumbly, textured appearance.


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